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Island Peak Return to Everest Region treks
Imja Tse, better known as Island Peak, is located towards the eastern end of the Nepalese Himalaya. First named Island Peak in 1951 by the distinguished British mountaineer, Eric Shipton, he claimed it resembled ‘an island in a sea of ice’. It was initially conquered in 1953 by a British team preparing for an assault on Everest; in fact Tenzing Norgay was a team member on the first ascent.Island Peak is a favourite of mountaineers, requiring little prior mountaineering experience. It should only be tackled though in the company of a highly trained mountaineering guide.
DAY TO DAY PLAN –
Day 2: To Namche Bazaar (O/nt Altitude 3,440m/6hrs approx.) Following the torrent of the Dudh Koshi, the trail climbs north through forests of rhododendron, magnolia and giant firs, to the village of Jorsalle for lunch, before ascending to Namche Bazaar, the largest village often called the ‘Sherpa Capital' of Khumbu.
Day 3: In Namche Bazaar Today is for acclimatisation to the high altitude; adjust by exploring the local markets, mingle with the people, walk up to the Everest view point, breathing deeply and happily lazing around in sunshine.
Day 4: To Tengboche (O/nt Altitude 3,860m/5hrs approx.) The trail now forks northeast along a tributary valley with the mountain views opening up to become very dramatic as the steep climb approaches the holy ground of Tengboche. Monastery; yak pasture and world’s highest sacred institution combined! Amazing views, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Everest.
Day 5: To Dingboche (O/nt Altitude 4,360m/5hrs approx.) Trekking past the Gompa, which holds the famous Yeti scalp, at Pangboche, are the summer yak pastures and here lies no doubt as to the Spartan lives of Sherpas. Beyond this, it is as well to understand that overnight sleeping facilities can reflect the harshness of our surroundings. Much of the walking in this area is of comparatively gentle gradient, although a leisurely pace is anyway recommended due to the high altitude.
Day 6: In Dingboche – Acclimatisation/Instruction Day (O/nt Altitude 4,360m) A second night is spent at this altitude; for a key to acclimatisation is the body’s night time adjustment to the same altitude provided by a second night while using the day to go higher (approx 4,300m). At the same time it is also used for ‘dry’ instruction in ‘above-the-snowline’ mountain techniques.Here are acclimatisation hikes to Nagajun Hill (approx. 5,050m) or Chukung village, with fine views of Ama Dablam, Makalu and other peaks, interspersed with lakes and glaciers.
THE CLIMB – High Altitude Tented/Bivouac and Meals – Days 7-10
Day 8: To Island Peak Base Camp (Pareshaya Gyab) (O/nt Altitude 5,087m/4-5hrs approx.) Everest’s two forward sentinels, the giants of Nuptse and Lhotse, crowd the northern peak-line with Lhotse’s glacier forming the ice valley to our left. Today is no more than a steady quite gradual ascent yet the sense of expectation is kicking-in. First the moraine; the detritus dumped by the Lhotse and Imja glaciers, the scramble over rock-strewn terrain, the crossing of the dry lakebed, the grassy slopes, to Base Camp.
Day 9: To High Camp (O/nt Altitude 5,700m/4-5 hrs approx.) Occasional cairns mark the upward route. In line with conditions becoming pretty uncompromising, the instructional comments of an experienced guide in whom you are fast finding confidence will not fall on deaf ears. The spectacle from High Camp is awesome; in the words of Bill O’Connor: … ‘The Peak provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If it can be likened to an island in a glacial sea then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), and Lhotse Shar (8,383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6,734m) beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m). To the south of the Imja glacier the icy fluting of Baruntse (7,720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6,856m) which is like a giant sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island Peak stands’. (See Bill O’Connor, ‘Nepal Trekking Peaks’, 1997.) All of this….and not even a mention of Everest!
Day 10: To The Summit (6,189m/5 hrs approx.) and return to Base Camp (total 10 hours) Summit day. Maybe not yesterday, but today you will surely know that you have acquired the mantle of the mountaineer. By definition this one is invariably a long and exhausting, dawn-sometimes-to-dusk, day to remember, beginning as early as light permits. We set off with rhythm and moderate pace and after maybe 4-5 hours, and with practiced techniques, and detecting seracs and crevasses, we gain the summit ridge. And thus on up, up quite steeply, up wearily and up cautiously to finally be there, on the summit.And, right there, due North, the yet to be mentioned… Everest. Not necessarily any more impressive than a dozen stunning others, but certainly no less so either! The entire panorama is literally ‘The Roof of the World’. The route down into an afternoon sun is familiar; past now-dismantled High Camp, and on down to the steaming mugs and other seemingly cosy comforts of Base Camp.
THE RETURN – Teahouse accommodation and meals – Days 11-15
Days 12, 13 & 14: Descend via Kyenjoma (3,520m) and Monjo (2,700m) to the airstrip at Lukla.
Day 15 & 16: Return flight to Kathmandu. Overnight Kathmandu and/or a ‘day-in-hand’ contingent with the expedition’s weather and/or other circumstances. Expedition ends on arrival with dinner in Kathmandu.
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